Some points for manufacturing molded and spherical pillar candles:
Candle wax melts below the boiling point of water, hence a double boiler is needed to prevent overheating. Never heat candle wax above 90°C or until it smokes, sputters, or vaporizes.
Make a workspace. The kitchen is wonderful. If necessary, protect the surface. Warm wax may be easily pulled from most surfaces. Most may be removed with a plastic scraper after cooling. Scrape only the surface. Recycle wax. Never flush wax.
Melting Your Wax…
Double-boiler wax melting. Basic kitchen tools make a double boiler. Huge heat-safe bowl over a smaller pot of water? A heat-safe container in water. Never overheat wax if you can’t improvise a double boiler. Well-water your double boiler. Observe wax melt and pour temps for best results.
Preparing Your Wich…
If not pre-waxed, you must prepare the wick. Long or short is possible. Unwaxed wicks are dipped in molten wax and surplus is drained. Give each end ample wick. Approximately 2.5cm (1 inch).
Depending on the sort of mold you’re using, preparation may vary, but you must spray or treat the interior with mold release’ or mild vegetable oil to prevent wax from sticking. Two-part mold Pouring from the top requires a wick on a “sustainer”.
Pouring from the top requires a wick sustainer. The sustainer ‘glues’ the wick to the mold and keeps it taught, centered, and upright. To stick your wick, use melted wax or ‘wax glue’ Put softened wax adhesive on the sustainer’s base or dip it in molten wax, then push it into the mold (note… silicone candle moulds work better with melted wax). Stick your wick erect, taught, and centered. A “wick holder” can do this. A wick holder is 2 sticks linked at either end with something flexible that pinches the wick between the sticks, allowing it to be drawn taught, and centered by placing the wick holder over the top of your mold.
Pouring from the bottom is different. Mold wick holes. Seal your prepared wick with a mold seal’ Mould seal is similar Use any comparable product. Make sure your wick is completely inside the mold seal to avoid leaks, and then push the sealed mold down on a level surface before filling. Compress your wick between the 2 sticks and pull taught, centering your wick and laying the wick holder on the mold.
After melting wax, add candle color and mix thoroughly. Cool your wax to pour temperature. Add a candle or essential oil while cooling. Add as much fragrance as the candle will hold. Most waxes can take 7-8% scent before losing stability. As the wax cools, add scent or oil. Wax it. Slowly pour in the wax. Slow pouring prevents candle air bubbles and voids. Tap the mold to release bubble-causing air while pouring. Cooling shrinks waxes. Avoid cavities and uneven surfaces caused by shrinking. A candle’s skin decreases as it cools. Pierce the skin with a knitting needle and pour wax over it to level it. Repetition required. Pouring above the fill height could cause candle sticking. After cooling, remove the candles. Overnight, better. If wax sticks to a mold, chill it to shrink and release it or dip it in hot water.
Reusable molds. Remove wax to prevent sticking. Once the wax melts, wipe molds with kitchen paper. Flexible silicone can endure high temperatures. Clean plastic molds with hot water. Overheated molds warp. Latex molds are plastic.
As most waxes cool, any additional color gets lighter.